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Gemstones are used with exceptional beauty in Indian jewelry. The very concept of a ‘maharaja’ conjures up images of a rotund royal, adorned in silk and decorated with diamonds, rubies, sapphires and other glittering gems. Indeed, India has always been obsessed with the beauty of gemstones. Fortunately, this craze manifests itself artistically in some marvelous works of silver and gold jewelry.

In India, gemstones have traditionally been worn for preventive, antidotal, and therapeutic purposes. Astrologically, they correspond to the various planets. The nine gems together, the navaratna, are a symbol of the solar system. In this way, gemstones harness the energies of the planets and the sun. They have powerful properties on the wearer for they also correspond to particular celestial deities. This symbolic arrangement of the universe and space has had a lasting impact on the Indian psyche. Gemstones are a way for the wearer to manipulate celestial forces for personal benefit.

There are 9 gemstones and the number 9 is itself considered magical. Wearing all nine of the gems together in a navaratna ornament is considered the most auspicious of all jewelry. Armlets, rings and pendants are the common ways to wear these, and there are some spectacular examples from the Mughal era. The number 9 is considered auspicious for it is the last of the single digits, there are 9 planets, and it is also the period of human gestation.

Amongst the 9 gemstones some gems are considered more precious than others because of their rarity. Therefore, these 9 were divided into the great stones (maharatnani), and the lesser stones (uparatnani). It’s not hard to guess which are the major stones, for they are also the most expensive ones on the market today. The former include the most precious of gemstones: diamond, pearl, ruby, sapphire and emerald. The lesser gems are the topaz, cat’s eye, coral, and hyacinth, or zircon.


The gemstones each correspond to one of the 9 planets, or nava-graha. Like a battery, they absorb the cosmic rays of the planet and discharge it eternally. The wearer benefits from the effects of these stones. These concepts were founded centuries ago, and are reiterated in the Agastimata, written in the 10th century, AD. The theory behind gemstone jewelry is truly ancient.

Whether you believe in their magical powers or not, no one can deny the beauty of gemstones. They are stunning and glamorous. You can’t take your eyes off of a pretty pair of silver earrings with cat’s eye set into it, or a ring with all the gemstones in it, glittering prominently.

Though gemstones are a part of ancient belief, they are also an important aspect of modern fashion. They defy time and space in their appeal. While one may question their influence on the wearer, they are undeniably beautiful in all Indian jewelry!

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